Guide to Crater Lake National Park
Our Visit to Crater Lake National Park
The Blue Lake
There are many places in national parks with the “wow” factor – the first time a fantastic scene comes into view. The first view of Crater Lake tops them all. It is jaw dropping. It tops the first time I saw the Grand Canyon, the first time I saw Yosemite Falls, and the first time I saw the Grand Tetons. The image of the vivid deep blue lake was seared in my memory.
The deep blue color of the lake, surrounded by the tall rim, is breathtaking. This is one of those places you have to see to appreciate it. No amount of pictures or video can do it justice.
How was it Created
An enormous eruption 7,700 years ago created Crater Lake, when massive pressure under the 12,000 foot Mount Mazama caused a circle of vents to form and spew lava. When enough lava flowed out of the volcano, the entire top of the mountain collapsed and formed a deep, circular hole. Over time, rain water filled the hole to create a lake.
The only water that flow into the lake are rain and snow from the lake side of the rim, so no sediments or impurities flow into the lake and no external stream feeds the lake. This makes the lake one of the clearest in the world.
No Native Fish, Constant Lake Level
The lake originally had no native fish but between 1888 and 1941, seven species of fish (1.8 million total) were stocked. Only Rainbow Trout and Kokanee Salmon survived and are in the lake today. Cleetwood Cove is the only place you can access the lake and you can fish there. Water seeps out via underground channels that keeps the lake level within three feet during any given year. This gives the lake an unique and isolated habitat.
Deep Lake
The lake is 1,947 feet deep, the deepest in the USA. The tallest part of the rim is over 1,978 feet above the lake surface. That means the Freedom Tower in New York can stand on top of the water and still not reach the highest rim point. Equally, the Freedom Tower at the deepest part of the lake will not reach the surface of the water.
Tale of Two Seasons
We visited Crater Lake twice. The first time in the spring and the second time in the fall. While the lake is the constant, the experiences were vastly different.
Winter Wonderland in the Spring
The drive towards Crater Lake National Park from I-5 was pretty. The closer we got, the more beautiful the scenery. Cars thinned out and the pines got taller. We arrived at the entrance sign with just a hint of snow on the ground. Soon after, as we continued to climb, the weather changed rapidly between sun, sleet, snow, and clouds – all within 15 minutes. Snow banks on the side of the road got taller and taller. Soon, snow covered the entire forest. It was May 17th. Four inches of snow fell the night before. The scene was just like a Christmas card.
Buried in Snow
The snow banks at the Steel visitor center (closed for refurbishment as of 2023) were 20 feet high. The building was hardly visible because nearly the entire building was covered in snow. Inside the visitor center, a very friendly ranger who looked like Mitch from the Modern Family TV show, wearing the green National Park Service sweater, answered many of my questions. The only areas open to vehicle traffic were the visitor center and Rim Village. I looked out the window from the visitor center and all I saw was snow because it was as high as the roof!
We continued to Rim Village, three miles up the road. On this day, the only thing that was open was the gift shop and the small restaurant in a three story building. The snow was as deep as the roof line so we felt like we were underground. There was a window on the third floor where they cleared enough snow from the window to allow a view of the lake.
We ate our usual lunch at a national park – a Subway sandwich. I said to Loretta. “I brought my wool hat and gloves all the way out here and this is exactly the reason! If there ever was a time to wear them, this is it”. She smirked at me and said “All right, if you must”. The temperature gauge read 27 degrees F (-3 degrees C) and the wind was howling.
The Wow
We walked up a snow bank and for a few minutes, the sun was shining even as the wind continued to howl. As we walked up the snow bank, the deep blue water came into view. The snow covered rim flanked the 25 square mile lake. The contrast between the deep blue water and the snow was mesmerizing. Oh, the blue water! I’ve never seen such blue water before. Because the water is so pure, it only reflects blue light, absorbing the rest and that’s why the lake is so blue.
Braving the Weather for Photography
I set up my tripod and took some photos of the lake, but the clouds quickly moved in and the wind picked up even more. I was determined, despite the cold, to get some time lapse photos because the clouds and weather changed quickly. The camera clicked away on time lapse mode as I watched the weather change from sunshine to snow to rapidly moving low clouds all in a matter of 15 minutes. The low clouds seemed like they were barely over the rim of the crater.
Changing Scenery
As quickly as the clouds moved in, they were gone and the sun returned. All the while, the wind blew incessantly which froze my fingers even with gloves on. With each change in light as the sun and clouds played hide-and-seek, the lake took on a different character.
When the sun was out, the lake felt tranquil with the bright deep blue color against the backdrop of snow covered rim, and the puffy white low clouds. When the clouds rolled in, the bright deep blue color of the lake turned an angry shade of dark grey and the waves picked up. The low dark clouds barely cleared the rim.
Then the whole lake faded from view as the snow fell, joined by the snow picked up by the wind from the snow banks. The view of the lake at this point was intermittent and nearly disappeared. Suddenly, the sun returned and the bright blue color of the lake was clearly visible again. The weather changed so rapidly it was fun to watch!
Full Experience in the Fall
The lake was so beautiful, I vowed we would be back for the full experience and we kept our promise! This time, we visited in September when we knew the snow would be cleared and the park fully open. Since we wanted the full experience, we stayed at the historic Crater Lake Lodge and booked the boat tour to Wizard Island.
The Arrival
We arrived at Crater Lake Lodge late in the afternoon as the sun was setting. The lodge lobby was busy with guests arriving and people waiting for the restaurant. We checked into our room with a “lake view”. While the room faced the lake directly, the window was tiny with an old screen that obstructed the lake view somewhat. In addition, the sky was hazy because of the wildfires a hundred miles away in California. While it was still pretty, it wasn’t what I remembered.
The restaurant was fully booked for dinner, so we had to drive back down the mountain to Mazama Village to get dinner. The pizza was pretty good!
Starry Sky
After dinner, we went to Discovery Point, just up the road from Rim Village, to enjoy the night sky. The sky was clear and the Milky Way visible, but we were interrupted many times by the headlights of cars coming to the parking lot. While cold, it was tolerable and the starry sky was a treat!
Crater Lake is one of the darkest places, with the least light pollution, to enjoy the night sky.
Cleetwood Cove
We got an early start the next morning and headed for Cleetwood Cove, the starting point of our six hour boat tour. The sun was out, but the sky was still hazy from the wildfires.
The lake came into view as we descended the steep switchbacks. I kept thinking about how much work it would be to hike back up the 700 feet of elevation. Soon enough, we reached the boat dock with 50 of our fellow tourists.
Cleetwood Cove is the only place you can access the lake. You can swim and fish from the shore (not at the same place). The water temperature at the surface was 58 degrees F (14 degrees C); as warm as it gets but still very cold.
The Boat Tour
Right on time at 9 am, we started our tour with an open air, 50 person boat that was new for the 2023 season. They had to use a helicopter to bring the boats to the lake.
As we headed for Wizard Island, the ranger pointed out various formations like Llao Rock that extends nearly 2000 feet from the lake, and Devil’s Backbone that is a 1000 feet long dike that reaches from the lake to the top of the rim.
Wizard Island
Before long, we arrived at Wizard Island, a cinder cone island with a 763 foot summit. This island was formed from an eruption after the main lake was formed. While it reaches 763 feet above the lake level, the island is actually 2500 feet tall from the bottom of the lake.
Hiking on Wizard Island
We had three hours on the island to explore. There were two trails on the island. Most people hiked the trail that led to the summit. Since we were no spring chickens, and we knew we had to hike back up Cleetwood Cove Trail when we got back, we decided to hike the other trail – Fumarole Bay trail.
This trail was just over a mile one way without much elevation change, but it was not easy. Nearly the entire trail was on loose lava rocks, so we had to be careful with our footing. The trail led to Fumarole Bay, with a fantastic but hazy view of the lake.
The people who hiked to the summit all said the view was gorgeous and breathtaking. If you have the stamina, that is a must do hike.
Old Man and Fresh Water
After about three hours, the tour boat picked us up and we continued the tour along the eastern side of the lake, with stops at Phantom Ship, Pumice Castle and a waterfall that was still flowing in early September from melting snow!
Near the end of the tour, we were introduced to the Old Man, a thirty foot log floating vertically with three feet above the surface. It is at least 450 years old and travels all over the lake, as much as 3.8 miles a day. Why it floats vertically is still a mystery.
As the finale, the ranger laid on this stomach by the side of the boat and scooped lake water into water bottles for anyone who wanted a souvenir. Of course, I jumped at the chance. The water tasted refreshing but I still don’t think it’s as good as New York City water. Loretta didn’t want any part of it, afraid of some pre-historic bacteria was going to eat her flesh from the inside out.
The Hike Back Up
By the end of the boat tour, we were ready to stretch our legs but hiking up the 1.1 mile, 700 feet elevation Cleetwood Cove trail wasn’t easy. We took frequent breaks and admired the view.
This trail is short but considered streneous. National Park Service says most of rescue requests at Crater Lake came from those who can not make it back up this trail.
By this time in the early afternoon, the haze improved dramatically and the lake gradually became as blue and as clear as I remembered it. The sun was out, the sky blue, and the temperature in the upper 60s F – perfect weather.
North Junction and the Watchman
As we headed back to Rim Village, we stopped at the North Junction overlook, which was OK. Our next stop was Watchman Overlook, which had the iconic view of Crater Lake with Wizard Island in the foreground. By now, the haze was almost completely gone. This is the view as I remembered it. In fact, it was better because I wasn’t freezing!
We explored the various parts of Watchman Overlook. By now, we didn’t have the energy to hike the 1.6 mile, 420 feet tall Watchman’s Trail to the top of the nearby peak, but I’m sure the view would have been fantastic.
Discovery Point
Next, we stopped at Discover Point overlook, the same place we went the previous night for stargazing. This view here was also excellent, again with Wizard Island in the foreground. We lingered for a bit. A nice Caucasian man thought I was Korean (I’m not) and started to talk to me in Korean. Once he realized I didn’t speak Korean, he told me all about his time stationed in Korea and the culture he experienced there. It was a good conversation. One of the best parts of our National Park trips is to meet all kinds of nice people.
Rim Village
Back at Rim Village, we went to Sinnott Memorial overlook near the bookstore, another great view, this time with Wizard Island in the distance. This overlook has a shelter with an inside and a balcony so if the weather is cold, wet, or windy, it’s a good place to view the lake and stay dry and warm.
We looked for the spot behind the main building where we stood the last time in the snow but just couldn’t quite get the view. When we were there the last time, the trees by the rim seemed lower and was not obstructing the view of the lake. This time, the trees by the rim behind the gift shop were tall enough to obstruct the view. Perhaps the snow pack was so tall it provided a very different angle. What a difference.
East Rim
We had to make the most of our day, so even though parts of East Rim drive was closed for major renovation, we drove as far as the road was open – Skell Head, and stopped at the various viewpoints.
The view of Phantom Ship was nice, but because the sun was setting behind Phantom Ship, it was hard to see, especially with the water reflecting the sun.
There are lots of hiking trails at various parts of the park, some around the lake and some away from the lake. They range from 33 miles as part of the Pacific Crest trail to less than a mile, flat walks. There isn’t a trail that goes all the way around the lake.
We doubled back from Skell Head back to Rim Village.
By this time, late in the afternoon, the haze was completely gone. The deep blue color of the lake was vivid with the late afternoon sun. The walk at Rim Village from the main building to the lodge had stunning views. We relaxed on the porch at Crater Lake Lodge while we waited for our reserved dinner time (we made the reservation the night before) while the sun set over the lake. What a fantastic day!
Departure
The next morning, we packed up and headed out, but not before one last look at this beautiful, mesmerizing lake. The sky was completely clear with no hint of haze. The sun was shining brightly. The lake was deep blue. This was THE view I will remember.
Thought for Crater Lake National Park:
Be pure in thought and don’t let impurities of the world influence you, just like Crater Lake is pure and blue because it does not receive impure water from the outside.
Impressions of Crater Lake National Park:
Crater Lake National Park has a single focus – Crater Lake. It is one of the most beautiful places on earth. It’s the Grand Canyon of lakes because of the wow factor.
Crater Lake is the deepest, purest, bluest lake in the US and by far the most beautiful lake in a national park. While the view is spectacular, this lake is not for recreation. The water temperature is in the 50s degree F (13 degrees C) at the surface and 38 degrees F (3 degrees C) at the bottom, far too cold for water sports, not to mention the pollution problem from lots of boats. This lake is an excellent laboratory for evolution because it is so isolated.
The many overlooks provide a view of the lake from many different angles.
Have you visited Crater Lake? Leave a comment below on your experience.
Crater Lake National Park Rating:
(Note: Ratings are on a bell curve, which means there are as many 5 star ratings as 1 star ratings. All National Parks are wonderful, which makes this a very strict rating scale)
| Element | Rating (out of 5 Stars) |
|---|---|
| Scenery | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ |
| Variety | ⭐️ |
| Accessibility | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ |
| Touring | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ |
| Hiking | ⭐️⭐️⭐️ |
| Wildlife | ⭐️ |
| Overall | ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ |
Top Attractions at Crater Lake National Park
- Rim Village
- Watchman Overlook
- Boat Tour
- Wizard Island
- Star Gazing
One Day Visit Plan
The West and East Rim drives are open only between June/July and October. As of 2023, East Rim Drive is closed in sections for repair. You can not drive all the way around the lake right now. Check for current status.
- Stay in or very near Crater Lake because you will need to get an early start.
- Reserve the 6 hour boat tour that includes a stop at Wizard Island ahead of time.
- Pack a lunch and bring it with you.
- Arrive at the park via Oregon Highway 62 and stop at the Rim Center to get maps and get oriented if they are open and you have the time.
- Drive directly to Cleetwood Cove, 30 minutes from Rim Village, and descend the trail to the boat dock in time for your tour. This is a 1.1 mile trail one way with elevation change of 700 feet. Allow at least 30 minutes to hike down the steep trail.
- Take the boat tour to Wizard Island. Hike one of the two trails at Wizard Island.
- After the boat tour, hike back up Cleetwood Cove trail. This is strenuous so take your time.
- Drive back towards Rim Village. Stop at Watchman’s Overlook and Discovery Point Overlook.
- Stop by the Sinnott Memorial Overlook at Rim Village
- Continue on East Rim Drive and stop at Phantom Ship Overlook
- Relax and watch the sunset from the porch of Crater Lake Lodge
Practical Info for Visiting Crater Lake National Park
- Plan for the right time of year to visit. Visit between July and September if you want to see the full lake and take the boat tour.
- Winter sports such as cross country skiing and snowshoeing are available between November and May.
- Average snow fall in May is twenty inches. Even June gets four inches of snow on average. Don’t expect to see much beyond Rim Village unless you are on snowshoe.
- One long day is enough to see the lake including the boat tour and a little hiking, but two days will allow a more relaxed pace and some additional hikes.
- Crater Lake Lodge overlooks the beautiful lake, and is open from mid-May to mid-October. Book early – a year early.
- Mazama Village at the foot of the mountain has a campground and cabins.
- Book boat tour ahead of time. They operate between July and early September.
- While driving your own car is the most flexible, trolley tours are available in season.
- Food and gas are available in the park.
- Medford is a good gateway city, with plenty of services and an airport.
Crater Lake National Park Facts:
- Size: 183,224 acres, ranked 33rd.
- Visitors: 527,259 in 2022, 2018 was a record with 756,344 visitors.
- Peak Month in 2022: 139,513 visitors in July
- Low Month in 2022: 5,484 visitors in December
- Entrance Fee: $30 per vehicle in season, $15 per person not in a vehicle
Date Visited: May 12, 2017, September 11, 2023
